Myanmar in 5 hours or less

Today my Thai visa expired.  I had no idea I’d be here a full month, but sometimes with traveling you wind up where you don’t expect.  Like today, for example, in Myanmar.

In order to remain in Thailand one is able to exit the country at a border post, and re-enter on a new visa, albeit much shorter, the same day.  Since I am in the very far north, I went to Mae Sai  and walked over the  bridge to Myanmar.  I didn’t feel nervous but the bottom of my feet were sweating so I guess I was excited.   Now I really felt like an adventurer!   I didn’t quite know what to expect on the other side other than blocks and blocks of markets which surround the border area on both sides.

Tourists at this checkpoint get a one day or two week Myanmar visa for $10 and are only allowed to visit the border town and two other towns which are a distance away.  The border office keeps your passport til you return.  My plan was to hop bus to Kentung and stay for  week.  It’s an old British outpost and supposedly very beautiful surrounded my mountains.  The other main draw is the hill people who live in the area, and who come to shop at the city market, making it a lively place.  I even had a recommendation for an excellent guide.

I was warned by the guest house owner where I stayed last night that the Myanmar government wasn’t allowing tourists to go to Kentung without a guide directly from the border as was previously allowed.  Of course this is not what I had in mind and unfortunately that is exactly what happened.  The rule changed in October 2009.  I would have had to take the guide in the tourist office at the border and either pay $20 for my place in a taxi with him, the driver, and a third guy, or pay both our ways on the bus round trip, plus $30 per day fee.  Not my idea of fun.  So I said I would only stay for one day, and was let out to roam Talchik as I wanted.

My heavy backpacks in the heat it made it slightly uncomfortable.  Immediately after crossing the bridge I thought “Wow, I am in Myanmar!” and was accosted my riskshaw drivers who wanted $2.50 to drive to the sights of the area.  I passed and wandered around the stalls of stuff for sale, and eventually sat down for veggie fried rice at an outdoor restaurant.  Oily as usual but at least it tasted fine.  The tea I ordered came with sweet and condensed milk already mixed in so I asked to have plain tea, which tasted even worse which befuddled me.

Carrying on and not ready to return to Thailand, I wandered around town some more.  I always want to see what is down that street, then the next one, and then around the next corner.  After going past the tree I told myself was where I would turn around I came across a small English school.

Inside what looked like a garage, three young teenage gals and about 4  eight year old boys were practicing writing English.  The teacher invited me to come in and I stayed for an hour talking to her and the kids.  It seemed that she is an English and Chinese tutor or teacher, and these kids are on summer break, and spending time practicing.  I learned that each of the three girls (one wore a “Michigan College” T-shirt, and the other “I love chocolate”) have an average of 5 kids in their families.  Their names were unfamiliar and I had a hard time pronouncing them.  They were shy but could answer basic questions.

The teacher was very nice and I had her write down all the phrases I think would be helpful for when I return to Myanmar.  When I asked how to say hello she wrote it down but said they don’t say it.  I got, ‘what is your name?’, thank you, how much, where are you from etc.  There was one little shnooker of a boy sitting writing his lessons, and his face was covered in yellowish paint.  I noticed others in town and this paint on their cheeks.  The teacher, “Doreen (Liza)”— which is how she wrote her names said it is supposed to be healthy for skin and a natural sunscreen.  She brought out the jar and started painting my arms and face.  I had one of the students take photos of this.  Doreen finished and commented how pretty I looked.  We exchanged  addresses and she even gave me the paint and brush.

She helped me hire a motorcycle (I as passenger) to take me to a non-impressive monastery where a few monk kids were wandering about, and a pagoda, which was shiny and gold.  From there I could see both Myanmar and Thailand which was pretty in its green folding hills.  I got dropped back at the border and met a kid from Connecticut renewing his visa.  No question asked, they just give you a new stamp and I have another 14 days.   I certainly hope to get to see more of Myanmar but have to return to Bangkok and fly to Rangoon after securing a proper visa.

I have to mention that last night I rolled into town and found my way to the most beautiful guest house I’ve ever seen,  on the river, and across the river (20 feet wide?)  from Myanmar surrounded my green mountains. There were no fences and anyone could swim across, and some kids were in fact  frolicking in the water.  It felt like a retreat, and my little bamboo chalet for $10 was so charming.   When I called for directions the woman kept hanging up saying she doesn’t speak English.  It was her daughter I had called before who said they had space so I knew it didn’t mean they were closed.  So I asked around for directions and headed along the road making guesses, and in the end was able to find it.  It was a good 15-20 minute walk, about one kilometer, which I will have to do again tonight but eat dinner first my taste for fried rice is getting old.